Auto paint

I need some help with airbrushing auto paint please, I sprayed some paint into a small glass jar, waiting 5 mins for it to stop bubbling, the put paint into airbrush cup to spray, the last two times I have done this at first the paint on the surface goes on smooth and with a shine, but 10 mins' later the surface has got a lot of very fine bubbles in the surface, it looks like someone has put a handful of sand on it. I shake the rattle can a good 10 min' wait 5 or so before spraying it into the jar. I have tried using the rattle can but always end up with to thick of paint and runs, what am I doing wrong I build up the coat with about six or so light coats of colour each time.

i rekon the best way to use automotive paint is to buy it as touch up paint, as long as u have the code they will mix about 100mls for arond $15, enough to do quite a few cars.

Thanks dv8v8, had forgotten about buy auto paint like that, there is a shop in Maitland that will make up the colours, They said if I don't have the colour code they can look it up in there books.    sould of remember as that what I used to airbrush a few murals years ago.

You got pics of those murals? I'd be very interested to see them!

I have found a few different brands like this Allan, even spraying from the can, that is why I only ever use Holts Duplicolour and spray from the can or as John said  get it mixed in 100ml lots. Inspirations (Dulux)will do it in 60 ml for about $12

Thank's Tubman for you infor too, The first one I had trouble was Holts Dupilcolour it was the sandstone beige, the second one was powerplus Galaxy which is a metallic blue. Will look into getting small tin of paint made up as the colours to paint will be use on the GMC. primer that I used was Holts one. As I said I have never been good at using a rattle cans I found I don't have the control of it as I do with the airbrush. slowlylearning will look for photos of the murals and post them for you.

What I have used for the past 35+ years is automotive Duco Tinters. The product has changed over the years to be more environmentally friendly such as removal of the lead etc. Basically it still works the same. I started using tinters because they are very concentrated and colors such as yellow will cover darker ones. You need 3 primary colors, black, and white to do any job; I'm referring to model work. The last "refill" of my 250ml jars cost only a few dollars from a  paint supply. The other thing which is essential for model work is Flatting agent. You can add it to vary the sheen. I generally add this to clear when I'm painting figure models to get the right amount of shine
to skin. I use Livingstone Lab jars with double seals to store the tinters but Vegemite jars are good too. The thinners should be the one for Duco, not "general purpose".

The above is a "serving suggestion"

Thanks dpride, for infor and help too, think the trouble is the Hydrocarbon gass staying in the paint.

Hi Allan,  
I only ever use automotive acrylic, holts duolicolor or powerplus, all i do is squirt it into a jar, add a little bit of thinners and away i go, no waiting for bubbles to stop, no stuffing around, just squirt and go, NEVER had a problem mate, never had a sandy finish either. Don't know what has gone wrong mate. (always add a bit of thinners, as out of the can is a bit thick, as for hydrocarbons staying in it?? don't think so mate.)

Thank's DeeCee for your in put, never add a bit of thinners to paint before, maybe the paint is to thick, will try it on old body to see if that is my trouble. have posted photos of cab in my build.

The problem is the chemecial they use to spray it out of the can, I do use the rattle can, in the air brush, and have learned that you need to to let it gas out over night, put it in a jar, put the lid on it, but not tight just like the first thread, or one twist, or put a few holes in the lid, but not to big, gassing it out for 5 min is not the trick, I myself use a lil thinner, but thats just me, but gas it out over night.

Thanks Gothickustomz, for your in put as I thought its the Hydrocarbon that is used for the propellant is the problem.

If I'm decanting from a rattle can Al, I'll always leave overnight in a loosely capped jar, adding thinners depends on the paint itself, it varies brand to brand. I'm mainly an airbrusher but have had some fantastic results using Duplicolor acrylic enamels and Tamiya straight out of the rattle can,  the trick is to move a little further away than you would with an airbrush and to move a little faster.  I've had a similar finish to your  coe  while airbrushing a candy blue over a Porsche (looks and feels sandy) and as you know you cant sand a candy without wrecking it, but with nothing to lose at that point, gave it a couple light coats of clear, wetsanded and polished that and it now has a mirror shine/ reflection. ( and I only spend 10 /15 mins from start of wetsanding to finish polishing, I'm lazy like that).

The general rule of thumb from what I've read is that  when decanting paint you shouldn't try spraying it until you can shake it and it doesn't try and fizz out of the jar, hence why I've tried to learn how to rattle can  better or wait, and I hate waiting.

When I paint, I use the same paints as DeeCee (obviously  ) But all that I do, is shake the spraycan for a couple of minutes, spray it into a jar, add a little thinners, mix it together and then spray it on. Never left it overnight, or even 10 minutes for that matter. And I myself have never had a problem with it.

Thanks Doorslammerfan for your in put too, have learnt a lot by put up this post hope others have got something out of it too. I am slowly getting the paint of the cab with the air eraser, not going to rush doing it,   as they say slow and steady wins the race

Thanks Adam for your in put too.