Using automotive paint

I was just wondering if you use normal car spraypaint on plastic or do i have to do something to the plastic first or do i have to use automotive plastic paint

I've been using auto paint for over 25 years, mainly duplicolour rattle cans. You need to put a primer down first, I always use Holts scratch filler primer, pretty sure the Powerplus spray putty is the same thing, just got a can the other day. Put down a couple of light coats first (don't worry if it doesn't cover the first time) then a heavier coat, this is when you will see how good your body is if you have done any filling. Remember to key the body first, by this I mean give the paint something to stick to. I use 800 grit sand paper. HTH

I used a gloss black and it went dull after it dried i think it was a supercheap brand

Was it acrylic lacquer or enamel? Generally acrylic will need sanding with 1200-1500 wet and dry and then polishing. it's hard to know without knowing what brand and type of paint you used. Pretty much with auto acrylics you do the same prep and sytem you would on a real car.

I've found Holts Acrylics will go dull if the weather temps not hot enough, how warm was the day you painted it?

I use nothing but 2pak theses days have done for the last 10 years or so. I find nothing goes on as flat or glossy of the gun. It does require more prep work and you must use a plastic primer barrier so as you don't get bleed through from filler or any of your body work.

The main draw back is that you do need a baking system for this, it will air dry but you will get a better finish if you bake it.

The day when i done it was around 12-15 degrees

I dont touch anything paint wise unless weather permits or heat my model room to 25-30 dgs, what ever the paint is.................


Regards

- needs to be 20 plus degrees before I start rattling cans (it will tell you as much on the can if you bother to read it!)

You should always use a primer before applying any kind of paint. Lacquer paints (and some enamels) have "hot" solvents that will eat into the plastic and result in crazing if you don't. The primer provides a barrier between the plastic and the paint and when sanded can also fill in small cracks or marks in body work. In the past I have used auto primer but had too many adhesion problems - paint would chip and crack during final assembly.

I now use Tamiya primer almost exclusively. It sticks real well to bare plastic and goes on nice and thin so you don't lose all your detail with the first coat. It may seem expensive at $15 a can, but in reality it sprays slower and more accurate, so you should be able to get three models out of one can unless you are doing really heavy body work.

And remember, even after you've primed a model, you still need to be careful not to apply the paint too heavily as if it is too "wet" the solvents will still eat through the primer into the plastic and "swell" all your sanding scratches, mold lines and any detail you thought you had removed.

Painting is a complicated process and one best learnt through trial and error. Good luck and I look forward to seeing the results!

If your hav'n problems with primer you cant go past Mr hobbys " Mr white surfacer 1000" not only is ideal for body work it is also perfect for priming small parts as its super fine, which will also help filling in gaps ect....... this stuff is that good( and depending on the user) you can almost get away without sanding it, but as bryce says its all trial and error mate and everyone has their own system, ya just gotta find out what works for you.


Kind Regards

TuffXR wrote:I use nothing but 2pak theses days...The main draw back is that you do need a baking system for this, it will air dry but you will get a better finish if you bake it.

And it'll eventually kill you (he says reaching for a smoke)
A respirator (with screw on filters - not a dust mask) is a good idea if you're using 2 pack or spraying in an enclosed area.
And yes, I know we all know that but OH&S is what I do all day so I can't help myself.

If you want a good shine straight from the can and don't want to pay too much then you can't go past Aussie Export enamels from Supercheap. As long as it's warm enough and/or you've prewarmed the body & paint.
Look at Bryces blue 34(?) Ford coupe - that's what he did that paintjob with and it's a cracker.

As for primer, I use White Knight (Bunnings) light grey or white primer and have no complaints. Don't use Aussie Export primer as it takes ages to dry and ends up with a semi gloss sheen (it used to be OK but then they changed the formula and the "new improved" stuff isn't). It's good if you want a semi gloss grey you can put on with no primer (I've used it on NASCAR chassis in the past) but as primer it's crap.

I'll then undercoat over the primer (if i'm not doing a dark colour) with White Knight (Bunnings) Squirts white undercoat. This goes on beautifully, dries quickley and sands gorgeously.

HTH

zenrat wrote:I know we all know that but OH&S is what I do all day so I can't help myself.

......that explains all your safety comments.

Zenrat wrote:If you want a good shine straight from the can and don't want to pay too much then you can't go past Aussie Export enamels from Supercheap. As long as it's warm enough and/or you've prewarmed the body & paint.
Look at Bryces blue 34(?) Ford coupe - that's what he did that paintjob with and it's a cracker.

Hmmm....I don't think he uses that cheap crap (could be wrong?? but I think he uses Squirts if he shoots enamel) and I know from my past experience with it that it's just that "Cheap Crap"...........IMHO

zenrat wrote:
If you want a good shine straight from the can and don't want to pay too much then you can't go past Aussie Export enamels from Supercheap. As long as it's warm enough and/or you've prewarmed the body & paint.
Look at Bryce’s blue 34 Ford coupe - that's what he did that paintjob with and it's a cracker.

Nope – as Paul says it wasn’t that cheap crap.

It was White Knights Squirts from Bunnings. It's great stuff - real shiny, hard and quick any time of year (sounds a bit like me). Just got to pre-warm the can and make sure you don't lay it on too heavy coz it will obliterate all detail in one coat!. A couple of mist coats will go better than one heavy coat, but I suppose that’s true of any paint…

I have tried that cheap crap once and it stayed sticky for months after and rubbed off on my fingers every time I handled it – never again.

zenrat wrote:
I'll then undercoat over the primer (if i'm not doing a dark colour) with White Knight (Bunnings) Squirts white undercoat. This goes on beautifully, dries quickley and sands gorgeously.

Have you ever painted lacquer over this?

What's the difference between primer and undercoat?? Same thing isn't it . I'm with Bryce and Paul, you use cheap crap your asking for trouble, ya get what you pay for. As far as 2 pac goes, yep, beautiful shine off the gun but it is very unforgiving, unlike acrylic lacquer which you can sand out any runs, 2 pac you need to strip and start again.
It depends on what you want.
I'm sorry, I'm out of this one now.Someone is gunna get their nickers in a twist soon.
I think my paint jobs speak for them selves.

Tubman wrote:I'm sorry, I'm out of this one now.Someone is gunna get their knickers in a twist soon.

I hope not Tubman, because that's not what this place is about!!

I think everyone has there own preferences and techniques when it comes to painting and building models, best advice I can offer to anyone learning the art of model building try and find like minded people in your area to learn from and read as much model related stuff as possible (Magazines, Forums etc) and don't be affraid to try new things...........then Practice, practice, practice and as they say it won't happen overnight but it will happen!!

it's also very hard to try and explain/teach things in text Roadrunner, plus it would also help if you gave as much information as to what your using/doing as possible otherwise it's a case of "How longs a piece of string" !!

Sorry Paul, I only meant this thread.
Anyway, I couldn't leave this place, you guys are my inspiration, my brothers. Where else could I find so many like minded nutters and I mean that in the nicest way.

Just so you do know, the aussie export is s*** koz its 70% thinner to 30% paint, i used this crap in my earlier days and had the same problem as bryce, i did a elcamino in blue, turned out REAL shiny, but 6 months down the trak it was still sticky, trust me, if you value your models you will not touch em with this s***.
Theres alot of cheaper alternatives paint wise and the model paints maybe 10$ a can, but you can see the diff straight away.......

Tubman wrote:Sorry Paul, I only meant this thread.
Anyway, I couldn't leave this place, you guys are my inspiration, my brothers. Where else could I find so many like minded nutters and I mean that in the nicest way.

I knew what you meant


.......Now before this thread does go to astray , just remember guys - opinions are like a$$holes ,everyone's got one!


anyway I think Bryce nailed the answer to the original question already

The roadrunner wrote:I was just wondering if you use normal car spraypaint on plastic or do i have to do something to the plastic first or do i have to use automotive plastic paint

Bryce wrote: You should always use a primer before applying any kind of paint. Lacquer paints (and some enamels) have "hot" solvents that will eat into the plastic and result in crazing if you don't. The primer provides a barrier between the plastic and the paint and when sanded can also fill in small cracks or marks in body work. In the past I have used auto primer but had too many adhesion problems - paint would chip and crack during final assembly.

I now use Tamiya primer almost exclusively. It sticks real well to bare plastic and goes on nice and thin so you don't lose all your detail with the first coat. It may seem expensive at $15 a can, but in reality it sprays slower and more accurate, so you should be able to get three models out of one can unless you are doing really heavy body work.

And remember, even after you've primed a model, you still need to be careful not to apply the paint too heavily as if it is too "wet" the solvents will still eat through the primer into the plastic and "swell" all your sanding scratches, mold lines and any detail you thought you had removed.

Painting is a complicated process and one best learnt through trial and error. Good luck and I look forward to seeing the results!

zenrat wrote:

TuffXR wrote:I use nothing but 2pak theses days...The main draw back is that you do need a baking system for this, it will air dry but you will get a better finish if you bake it.

And it'll eventually kill you (he says reaching for a smoke)
A respirator (with screw on filters - not a dust mask) is a good idea if you're using 2 pack or spraying in an enclosed area.
And yes, I know we all know that but OH&S is what I do all day so I can't help myself.
HTH

Thanks for the heads up but i work in a panel shop and use all the right gear both there and at home.

I love aussie export, couple thin layers then a wet one, about an hour in the shade on a dry day and its buddiful! But to each their own i guess... someone should do a comparison, airbrush and rattlecan 2 of the same models and see what comes up better

my best advise would be to simply try until u succeed. ive had both really good results and really poor results with enamal, acrylic and 2pac. a gr8 finish is possible with all 3 types of paint but all take practice and a developed technique. my prefered choice of paint is acrylic, like every1 else has stated, if u fudge it, its easier to repair but it also requires alot more work to get the final finish. trial and error and u will find a product best suited for u

Oops, sorry Bryce.
Of course you'd never use Aussie Export.

However, one of my best paintjobs was done with the stuff sprayed straight from the can and then cleared with floor polish.

No problem with it not drying on this one.

XR, that wasn't aimed at you but was a general comment. Mrs z's dad was a panel beater/painter and it was years of no respirator that killed him.

Lacquer over White Knight Squirts undercoat? All the time. Not had any problems that could be blamed on incompatibility (rather than incompetence or the weather).

zenrat wrote:Oops, sorry Bryce.

Apology accepted.

zenrat wrote:
Lacquer over White Knight Squirts undercoat? All the time. Not had any problems that could be blamed on incompatibility (rather than incompetence or the weather).

Interesting - I may have to give this a try some time. I have been looking for a cheaper alternative to Tamiya primer.

I have had a few probs with Aussie Export goes on ok but it always stayed tacky even after a month. So I got some Dulux clear and covered it with that no problems. I thought that lacquer will cover enamel but not vice a versa?