Rust 102, or a Carps approach to rust

So here's my alternate take on rust.

This is part of my rust farm, the underside of my BBQ hot-plate.



The rust can be chipped off in big flakes or scraped off using a chisel or whatever you have handy for scraping stuff.



The rust is collected in containers. Often I crush the big chunks to create more dust than rust.





Here's some different rust, grown in a cup of nails, just add water. The water evaporates but not after turning the nails into a nice rusty mess. Different types of nails create different coloured rust.



My process is pretty easy. First up detail the part you want to send rusty. I cleaned all the plastic away that didn't look like a '34 Ford fender and drilled out the headlamp mounting hole plus the horn bracket hole and the two holes where the coach bolts attache the fender brace to the fender.



The trick part here is the extra detail. On a real '34 fender the headlamp mounting is not just a hole it has a sort of rolled edge which helps keep everything located properly. So a little heat from a match and a push against the hot plastic from below with a toothpick and it looks much more like the real deal.

Underneath all the moulded in stuff has to go. I use a medium stone on my Dremmel to get rid of this stuff.



Next up is to apply some paint. I use this water based stuff from the model railway store, it dries sort of looking like rust. But the best bit is it stays wet for a good time.



I just paint it all over the part not taking any particular care with coverage or surface finish. Sometimes I may coat the part with coloured enamel to replicate original paint before adding the rusty stuff. Experimentation is good and will get you many different effects.



Whilst the paint is still wet, the part is dropped in the container of rust, the lid sealed and....



I shake the bejeeezus out of it. How long doesn't seem to matter, the important bit is how wet the paint was.



When ready open the container and remove your rusty part. Carfeul here as there'll be very fine rust dust looking to escape and make a mess. So I'd strongly recommend this job is done outside.



Because I was taking photos the paint on the topside dried before I did the shake deal but it was wet enough that it looks OK.



The underside was much wetter and the difference is obvious. From here the part can be detailed with whatever else you use such as Tamiya pastels etc.



Sometimes I even add some of the iron paint and activator to get a variation in the surface effect. The activator works well on the real rust if you want it to look even more rusty.

Great way of doing scale rust Carps! I already started my real rust collection and will try mixing the 2 methods on my '32 Reaper!



This is the kind of finish I will be trying to achieve on it!

great tutorial carps...

Awesome tut mate! Though Any chance of getting them back?

you really need ta stop moving/deleting your pix Carps!!!! any chance of getting 'em back for this one??

Yeah - where have all the pics gone?

I've been using Haymes Designer Finishes real iron paint and oxidising patina.
Still working on it but this is where i'm at.

anyone have any feedback about Rustall

Luke take a look at Andy's topic on rusting cars - it's the very first topic posted in this same thread. He uses Rustall for his effects. You can buy it from Model Railway shops, but I don't know who the wholesaler is?


Tezza