Using Tamiya Spray in Cans need infomation ASAP Please

Hi Guys
Very rare for me to have a Sunday off and need some info Urgent to shoot to the shops please.
With the Tamiya Spray paints do I need to use a primer or is good to go and spray on straight away.
Its just that even in the instructions it does not mention to use a primer with there can spray.
In the past I have not used a primer with Tamiya sprays but now I am not sure.
I have been reading to buy White Knight from Bunnings as a Primer and then Aussie Exports Enamels from Supercheap. If I go down this road will I have to sand the primer before painting with the enamel?
Any help would be great.
Thanks again guys for all your help over the last week with a newbie reborn

I've used it before without primer, worked fine.
At least it saves wet sanding primer, which might be helpful since you don't have alot of time.

Thanks mopar
Mate you always come through for me and super fast reply.
I must owe you atleast 6 golf lessons now.
Cheers
Addam

i rekon u should use the Tamiya fine white primer and wet sand between coats

Problem with the cheap Bunnings paint is.........it's cheap for a reason, the lighter colours go yellow, even Fred will agree with this. Personally I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole. Think about how much you paid for the kits. Why would you then scrimp on the paint? If it were me, I would go auto acrylic every time. Some guys have great success with Tamiya paints but I have nothing but dramas. I use Holts Duplicolour grey primer and Duplicolour colours and clear coat, available at Cheapa Auto, Autobarn and Repco. You could try Powerplus from Supercheap, made by Holts as well but sometimes have trouble with it, Sometimes the primer stuffs up, just make sure you shake it really well, tends to settle it the bottom of the can and clog up.
I've got cars that I painted 20 years ago with auto acrylic that look just as good today as they did when first painted.
Auto acrylic is very forgiving too, if you get a bit of crap in it when spraying, a quick sand and it's all good, enamels would need to be repainted most of the time.
If you are determined to use Tamiya paint use Tamiya primer, it's there for a reason.
Only my opinion but it works for me.
Cheers
Kirk

I,m in with what Kirk says, auto acrylic all the way for me too, 3M primer is very good i have found too, most good auto stores carry it, and yes, you really need to wet sand your primer before colour is added mate, 80% of a paint job is prep work, doesn't matter how good your top coat is, if its crap under neath, it will spoil it all.

ive used tamiya spray with and without. both work. primer 'seems' to make it a nicer finish but the differennce is minimal.

only auto paint I've used is holts form SCA, cause it was the colou i wanted. the paint pulls in and is abit wierd without a good primer

Ah yes, I didn't realise you were talking about Aussie Export paint. Their primer isn't too bad if my previous experience is anything to go by, but their paint is just bad news.

Tamiya paint on the other hand (which I should have mentioned specifically in my last post ), no problems straight on plastic. I would recommend priming first though, just to be sure, and as far as I've heard and seen (not personal experience) Tamiya white primer is the way to go.

Holts/Powerplus have gone on fine in the past, but I usually end up with some pretty serious orange peel. That's probably more to do with my technique of application though, rather than the actual paint.

But yea, Tubman and DeeCee know what they're on about. Any advice they have- take it

I'm with Kirk and Dale on this too, I have used Tamiya clears heaps before with reasonable results but for ease of use and good results I use Holts, from primer to clear.

Hi there

I've been using the fine white primer from Tamiya for a while now and I'm very happy with the results. No more problems with paint sticking to masking tape and stuff like that. It is a good base for all types of paints, never heard or experienced something bad with the primer.

Use it on bare plastic only as it may react with chrome plating and some paints.

Cheers
Kevin

Thanks Guys
I went with the Tamiya in Gloss black and it came up really good.
Thanks again for all your help today, I spent the last 4 hours after painting turning my garage into a Man Cave Haha.
All ready for getting right into the building now. Oh shit that means you guys will have to put up with me and the wife will see less of me

No probs with Bunnings paint. It's the supercheap Auto paint that gave me grief (Aussie Export).
I always use White Knight metalcote primer (grey, white or red) and undercoat (white) which I get from Bunnings. Also the White Knight squirts enamels and the White Knight Krystal Klear clearcoat. No problem with these. They are not however the cheapest rattle cans Bunnings do. I have tried the cheapest Bunnings stuff (can't remember the name) and it was as bad as the Aussie Export.

If painting with car paint I just get whatever the local Autobarn or Repco has. If you are lucky you will find a car parts place selling off paint cheap as it has been on their shelves for too long. I got a load of very groovy 70's Ford & Holden colours this way and only a few of them came out like silly string.

Regarding Enamels, Don Yost recommends using Enamel thinned with cheap GP thinners for a quick drying great shine. It sounds weird but it seemed to work when I tried it during the week with testors paint on an engine block. I'm girding my loins for a larger scale test and i'll let you all know how it goes.

Help please guys
What grade of wet paper do you guys use to get the best results with Holts.
I woke up this morning and the Tamiya stuff looked crap.Going on was fine and shiny while wet but you could see at a close up its not what I wanted.
So with Holt Duplicolour grey primer and Duplicolour colours and clear coat what is the best steps for the best results.
Also do you have to grey primer all sprayed parts like the little peices or in there case is it okay to spray the Holts Duplicolour straight on. I can understand for best results on the body panels but just the little things like roll cage.
Can I save the shell I already painted. Can I just wet sand it back and overcoat with Holts? What grade of paper do I use please.
Cheers guys

I wet-sand every coat, primer included, with 3200, 6000 and 12000 grit to get a smooth surface without orange peel. I'm using the stuff from micro mesh for the wet-sanding. If you buy one sheet of each grit, you are fine for almost a year. They last pretty long if used correctly. Don't wet-sand with a lot of pressure. Just easy going and you get a smooth base for the next coat.

I'm sure you can save the work that you have already put into the paintjob.

You don't have to primer everything. It is at least good to primer everything that is later painted in body color. That makes sure the paintjob looks the same everywhere. Especially when you have red plastic or something like that, there can be a visible difference in color on primered versus unprimered parts.

Cheers
Kevin

Thanks for that great info Kevin
I went and bought some great Holts paints and there etch primer and clear so I am wrapped to go down this road with the paints as it was a real PITA to get them

Big Mistake
Etch Primer has caused big problems with paint. It all looked good when wet but as soon as it dried it looked like crap. The problem is I have sanded them back soooo many times that now they have started to take off all the engraved etching from the door trims and guard area and look like shit. I am so frustrated because I have done all the preping right every time.
I bought some more Tamiya spray and there undercoat also and just ordered the correct sanding pads from noosa so they will be here by Wednesday. I feel alot of problems stem from the wet and dry sandpaper I was using as much as the Etch primer.
Whats the difference between Tamiya Fine undercoat and Tamiya Undercoat. I tried to read the can but they are both in japanese.
Also I misread
I wet-sand every coat, primer included, with 3200, 6000 and 12000 grit
as 320,600,1200 from my old car repair days so that going to help.
So I have Micro Mesh on the way

Maybe should have just got the grey primer mate, I think you will have problems with the etch primer. Don't ever let old mate at the shop tell you you can't use it, they mostly have no clue.
What is the problem with the Tamiya paint job? You may be able to fix it but no you can't put Holts over it, you would need to strip it. If you don't want to post a pic on the forum you can PM it to me and I'll take a look.
No matter what paint you use, especially acrylic lacquer you need to do dust coats, the first couple won't cover but keep going then a final heavier coat, a light sand betwwen coats with 1500-2000 grit wet and dry.
It all takes practice, I've been using Holts for over 25 years, still get the odd one that for some reason won't play the game, maybe impatience on my behalf or who knows but it will take lots of practice. As I said previously the good thing with acrylic lacquer is if you get a run or crap in it you can simply sand it down and recoat.
If you think you can't get it together you are welcome to come out to my place and I can run through it with you, i'm out this Saturday but will be home Sunday if that suits or one afternoon, just PM me if you would like the help, would hate to see you lose heart and not finish them.
Cheers
Kirk

I'm with Kirk mate. I was using the tamiya cans and got some great finishes but got sick of painting a body 2 - 3 times because it got marked... The problem is the tamiya stuff never sets really hard so it's easily marked. My last two builds were done with holts rattle cans and i won't be going back to tamiya! The finish obtainable with the holts is outstanding. No need to go overboard with the super fine standing though. 3000 wet and dry from autobarn on the colour and clear final coats is plenty. Cleans up nice with tamiya super fine polishing compound or automotive polishes. Sets nice and hard and is forgiving. As has been mentioned make sure you give the cans a good long shake. I also like to warm the cans up in hot water to make the paint flow nice regardless of the brand. This time of year watch out for humidity too. If you have the option of painting in an airconditioned room it will help as they dry the air out. It all helps. Hope you can save the body mate.

2 pack clear - it's the mutts nuts but it will kill you if you don't mask & glove up.

OK. As promised the result of thinning enamel with GP thinners.

This is straight off the gun - just left to gas out for a day.
It will need a polish but it's much better than I usually get with enamel at this stage. It also dried quicker and will I think be ready to polish sooner.
I thought i'd make the test as tough as possible so the paint is Bunnings White Knight Strokes gloss black enamel (same as the squirts rattle cans but in a tin to brush on) and I thinned it with the cheap GP thinners i use to clean my airbrush out.
The body was primed with flat black enamel from a rattle can and was just lightly rubbed over with a very worn foam backed abrasive pad.