HSV GTO Monaro

awsome mate hey are those tv screens in the rear of headrests if so ya should put a pic in them otherwise awsome and its gonna look sweat with the clear on it

Thanks guys for all the great feedback.

boothy, they are tv/lcd screens (thanks for noticing) I am Planning on finding an appropriate image for them, maybe something HSV (I don’t think a snap shot from “finding Nemo” will cut it, LOL), I also want to put some knobs/buttons on them, also going to try and shrink down a “ HSV, I just want one” sticker for the rear window.

Technical question for ya’s, do I give it a light wet n dry sand before clear coat, or just a clean with soapy water?? I have never gone to this extent with a model before, but do plan on going further in the future. As I’ve all ready learnt sh@t loads from all of your posts and pics etc. luvn this site.

cool that would look ok mabe an old bathurst pic or somthing

um well every one has there own way but i just wash and spray but each to there own

Knackers wrote:Technical question for ya’s, do I give it a light wet n dry sand before clear coat, or just a clean with soapy water?? I have never gone to this extent with a model before, but do plan on going further in the future. As I’ve all ready learnt sh@t loads from all of your posts and pics etc. luvn this site.

Wot I would do is spray the clear then give a light polish with meguires ScatchX to get the surface smooth. Then put another couple coats of clear on and it should be nice and shiny

Wot I would do is spray the clear then give a light polish with meguires ScatchX to get the surface smooth. Then put another couple coats of clear on and it should be nice and shiny [/quote]

Does the meguires ScatchX leave a film that needs to be cleaned b 4 next coats, or strait over?

I don't like to sand between coats, I prefer to polish everything at the end.
For polishing. I start with Micromesh, and go from 4000 - 12000 grit, then do my final polishing with Scratch X and Tamiya Polish.

Lookin Good! I'd give it a quick go over with some mild soapy water and a toothbrush after the scratch X, let it air dry then clear coat.

Wipe it over with wax and grease remover, if you don't and there is silicone in the polish it will fisheye the clear coat, stuff it in other words. I would not polish it before you clear coat, give it a wipe then clear it, then sand . What type of paint? Acrylic lacquer, enamel ??

G'day Knackers,
Nice work so far, I especially like the undercarriage.
I don't polish between coats either, you don't want the surface too smooth or the remaining clear coats won't have anything to grip to. After paint I give the body a scrub with a toothbrush and toothpaste then clean it with soapy water. I use a hair dryer to dry it then jump straight into the clear coats. Once that's done I sand the clear smooth then polish.
HTH.

Thanks guys, great help, its enamal paint Tubs, Holts auto touch up, so I am guna clean, clear, sand & polish, hopfully be all done over the week end. cheers

If it's Holts dupli colour in the 150ml can it's actually acrylic lacquer and by the look of your finish I'd say that's what it is. I've been using that stuff for over 25 years. If you are using Holts clear then you can spray straight over the colour no probs then wet sand with 1500 then 2000 grit paper then polish. Novis do a perspex polish that is awesome (#2), meguiars do one as well which I think is the same thing, much easier to use than scratchex, from my experience anyway, it's the only polish I use.

There's so many different kinds of polish available, try a few see what you like. I do what Kirk said, "Clear then wet sand with 1500 then 2000 then polish". But I do a 3 step polish after the sanding. First I use Diamond Cut N' Polish to take out most of the fine scratches and to bring back the shine, then I use Meguiars Scratch X to remove all the fine scratches, last step is my favorite, Meguiars Carnauba Wax. This gives it that "wet look".

Thats looking great so cool colour

boothy wrote:awsome mate hey are those tv screens in the rear of headrests if so ya should put a pic in them otherwise awsome and its gonna look sweat with the clear on it

Boothy, I tryed a small image of a car racing, but too small to see, so I have tried a HSV logo to look like a screen saver, i done these as a test, I think they may need to be a tad smaller.

Got the new T.P.Box fluted bonnet today, seems a bit thick on the R/H side, so will have to get out a small sharp chisel and see if I can get it down a bit

Be very careful, I would use 80 grit sand paper on a block, sands really easy, then use smaller grits to get it smooth. Wouldn't want to see it chopped in half or worse, a couple of fingers off.

Tubman wrote:Be very careful, I would use 80 grit sand paper on a block, sands really easy, then use smaller grits to get it smooth. Wouldn't want to see it chopped in half or worse, a couple of fingers off.

fair call Tubs, however I do have a spare bonnet, just no spare digits LOL. Cheers

I agree with Kirk, just use the sandpaper. Anyway its lookin good man!

hey mate those hsv logos look a good size and with the bonnet wash it with warm water and a tooth brush first mate cause itl take off all the little bits that arnt ment to be there so then you can see exactly wot you need to do with sanding and i dont sand or full polish any thing i just use turtle wax ultra gloss detailer its awsome just spray on and wipe off thats it but wot you need to do is experement with stuff and find wot suits you weather you wont spray n wipe or apply and full buff otherwise keep motorin mate